Exarchia is a densely inhabited neighborhood in the heart of Athens. A more central place can not easily be found. It borders with the historically known National Technical University. It was this university building that thousands of students and workers occupied during November 15th-17th 1973. An uprising that became the beginning of the fall of the seven-year military junta in Greece.

Through time many writers, politicians and other significant greek personalities have lived right here in Exarchia. Perhaps this is why Exarchia today is characterized by a high level of political activity. Maybe it’s also why there are many bookshops and publishing houses located here.

The first thing you notice when you enter these neighborhoods are the many graffiti paintings on building facades and walls. Some are great and some not so great but they certainly give a special character to Exarchia. The neighborhood is a mix of busy streets with both 19th century houses and newer buildings.

Around the central square you can find many coffee-shops and fast-food places. But to be honest this is not the most inviting place to sit at. Unfortunately this square attracts some strange and sometimes unpleasant people. Instead you can go to the pedestrian street Valtetsiou (which is right next to the square) to grab something to eat at the well known tavern ”Rozalia” with its wonderful garden!

Many people have described Exarchia as the bohemian part of Athens, others as a place for heavy metal-fans. In this place there is a great mix of punk-rockers, heavy metal rockers, anarchists, hipsters and poets. All at the same time as the police is on almost every corner guarding different offices of political parties and politicians.

One thing is clear. Exarchia may not suit everyone’s taste but it is real and genuine and according to Untraveled it is definitely worth a visit.

How do you get to Exarchia then? Relax, its easier than you think. Around Exarchia there are plenty of bus and trolley stops which come from and go to all parts of Athens (“trolleys”, if you were wondering, are the purple buses that are driven on electricity which they get from cabels on their roof). Also near this area are the central subway stations of Panepistimio (red line), Omonia (red and green line) and finally Victoria (green line).